Auckland, NZ or Why are these people so fucking kind?!

I met this word and this concept on my first day in Auckland: Turangawaewae - having a place to stand for. For Maori this is a crucial concept that speaks of one's place within the world.

The looming SkyTower which turned 20 while I was here

On my first full day in Auckland, I walked the streets of the CBD (Central Business District to you uninitiated travelers) in an attempt to get lost. I wasn't succeeding, the city is laid out really well with a huge Skytower spire looming over all (insert Eye of Sauron reference here). Unfortunately it is attached to a really pretentious hotel called Mordor, I mean SkyCity, but I was told I should go anyway for the view.Didn't do it, maybe next trip. 

Usually when I travel to an international city, I try to get lost so I can find my way around and explore the nooks and crannies you don't see on a tour. Some would say this is crazy and potentially dangerous if you wind up in a part of town that may be "sketchy" or in other words where the real shit of living goes down. However, I have always relied on my Harlem upbringing to keep me safe. Those New Yorkers (especially those of us black and brown folks from those "sketchy" neighborhoods) know of what I speak of. That street smarts we got navigating our own neighborhoods from the moment we became aware of "sketch" or walking down 42nd Street and Times Square when it was all XXX and seedy. Not the Disney neon nightmare it is now, but the 42nd Street in the black and white photos where our parents were afraid we would catch a disease just from sitting in the movie theater seats. From the age of 10, I was taking the city bus to school, from Harlem to the Upper West Side by myself because that's what NYC kids did in the 80's and 90'. I have always counted on my street smarts and my blackness to get me through. The potentially sketchy neighborhoods of Auckland weren't going to scare me. The Maori listening to pounding rap and R&B from their cars made me feel right at home.

THIS TREE!

On first impression, I am amazed with how the Maori culture and influence is infused and threaded throughout all of New Zealand life I have seen so far. From the people, to the signs, to the food to the politics and the television. I spent 30 minutes that first morning watching Maori TV and being astonished that I was watching a station in the language of the indigenous people of the country. Imagine if there was a Native American television station in the USA in the many diverse languages that make up the Native American culture. I was in awe and this glimpse into New Zealand culture I think is helping me answer the questions I posed in my title - Why are these people so fucking nice? 

My opinion, and I have only been here a week so everyone may disagree: They are trying to deal with their shit.  Broken treaties, stealing of land, mistreatment of the indigenous people, of the immigrant populations, exploitation. They are actively working on it, talking about it, making mistakes, and continuing to try. I learned there is a Maori government that runs concurrent with the New Zealand government and that much of the city is on tribal land the city actually has to lease! I actually exclaimed "No shit!" to my new friend Francesca. 

I have felt an openness and willing to share and help since I arrived. From my bus driver that offered to walk me to my hotel because she was on a break to the people who held the elevator doors open well after the annoying bell signifying the doors were open too long played. The people I have encountered have been kind. 

Kind. Not nice. Kind. Niceness can be fake. I'm nice to many people but kindness requires you to use your heart and to care. It feels like people here care. They care if you are enjoying the city. They care if you like your meal.They care if their behavior has been offensive to you. They share a laugh with you as you wait for the elevator or wait in line at the bank machine. They smile at you in the street. And it has been everyone. The jaded New Yorker in me is snarling inside but it's been lovely to be around.

Auckland Art Gallery in the CBD

Which brings me back to Turangawaewae. In my exploration, I happened upon the Auckland Art Gallery. A beautiful building, part modern, part renovated older building connected to a beautiful park. The art is modern, classical, conceptual, cultural and all things in between. It was on the first floor of the gallery that I found a painting inspired by the concept of Turangawaewae - finding one's place in the world. And it spoke to me. Partly because of my current transition  journey and partly because of the journey the people of New Zealand are on. Trying to find their place in the world. Together as a people. At least this is my interpretation. You get to form your own opinion when you visit. 

Outdoor Library on Quay Street Viaduct

Probably the other reason why the people here are so nice is because the country is fucking gorgeous. Like I said before, I tried getting lost downtown but couldn't. Granted I probably didn't try hard enough, but I kept finding the hidden gems (or hidden to me, in plain site to the Kiwis as they call themselves). The outdoor library made from a shipping container with astroturf and chairs so people could sit outside and enjoy their books. 

Shoya on Queen Street near the famous K Road

The hole-in-the-wall ramen shop, Shoya, with what I think is the best ramen I have had so far in this long life of mine. 

View point from the town of Oneroa 

The bay of Waiheke Island

On Wednesday, I spent a day doing something I will admit to internally deriding in my previous travels. The Hop-On-Hop-Off bus and tour. It always seemed like a waste of time to me. Whenever I saw people filing off of them I thought, "Figure out the city your fucking self," but after being on the system today on Waiheke Island, getting to explore the wineries the scenery and the Oyster Inn, I am a reluctant fan. And again, kind tour guides. Honest about which stops might not be worth the time because places were closed or the weather (it had been raining) made the hiking less than ideal. It had actually became a joke between myself and the tour guides who would say, "but you know Gerald, that restaurant is closed today." It was a nice joke to share with them. Traveling alone can be parts exhilarating, part adventurous, a tad clandestine, and at times isolating, so being able to connect with people is key. 

This freaking view!

Bach Winery

The Bach Vineyard where I will get married if that day ever comes. Gorgeous! On top of a hill with a 360 degree view of the Island. 

This post office actually has lots of different shoppes inside

On my last day, I decide to take the Harbour Cruise, a 90 minute tour and history lesson of the coast of Auckland. The tour company throws in a free ferry trip to Devenport, the first settlement outside of Auckland. Some would say I should have done this first to get a feel for the city but it just didn't seem right. Devenport provided a lovely walk and good house sightseeing. The boat was a great way to spend time on the water and see the coast  Quite lovely. 

This house was being renovated. Probably pricey $$

A monument thanking the Maori for allowing use of the land. 

Sadly, the tour showed me how much of the city I missed. From the boat I could see coastline and how the city spread out from the CBD (I probably only saw 1/5 of Auckland which just means I'll have to come back). A gentleman told me Auckland doesn't have a lot of hotels, most are in the CBD so I would have had to use Airbnb which creeps me out. However the Hilton has been a great place to set up shop for this first week. The staff has been pleasant and incredibly helpful. And I have gotten free breakfast each morning and free drinks each night. And not the cheap liquor or the breakfast that consist of running eggs and a dry croissant. Real breakfast with smoked salmon and bacon! That's my kind of place. I recommend it. 

Auckland's Harbor Bridge

The Hilton on Princes Wharf

The naval base in Devenport

Ranitomo

Just a great picture

The lighthouse

Auckland has been wonderful and a good way to start this decompression and entry to a new chapter of existence. I'm sorry to leave without seeing more of the country but it gives me an excuse to come back and spend more time. 

P.S. - If you are from New Zealand, reading this and thinking I am full of shit, please enlighten me on my thoughts about Auckland. I would love to learn more.


Next stop: Sydney